Good skin-care products have active ingredients – components that work at the cellular level to change the structure of the skin. In contrast, passive ingredients just sit on the skin and don’t have a target. The other ingredients in skin-care formulations are there to hold-together/ stabilize the skin-care product and to contribute to the look and feel of the skin-care product. These ingredients should ideally work synergistically to globally benefit the skin.
Ideal benefits are to be anti-inflammatory, have local anti-oxidant functions, and to promote neogenesis (cell regeneration). Three important ‘active’ ingredients in skin-care products are vitamins A, B, and C. They have to be in the correct form and delivered at the correct pH (acidity level) to make them useful. Here’s a quick low-down about them:
Retinol, the most effective version of vitamin A, functions best at a pH of over 5 and it increases the turnover of cells (skin) and collagen, which smooths wrinkles and firms the skin.
Vitamin B ‘Group’
There are eight types of B vitamin. The main one for the skin is B3 (niacinamide), which should be at a concentration of 3% to 10% to make its presence worthwhile, and its main role is to support the skin’s barrier to prevent dehydration (water-loss). It also assists improving collagen production and reducing unwanted pigmentation. There is also evidence that it helps to treat mild acne and possibly rosacea.
L-ascorbate, functions best at a pH of pH of under 3.5 for percutaneous absorption (i.e. through the skin), and has antioxidant and skin ‘brightening’ functions. Like vitamin B3, it also helps to reduce unwanted pigmentation and improve collagen-production.
In the opinion of Dr. Niro Sivathasan (drniro.com.au), the vitamin B family are the most important. Why? Simply because, it’s all about the bounce and glow, because hydrated skin is, and looks, healthy. Vitamins B3 (niacinamide) and B5 (panthenol) support the barrier function of the skin, to minimize a crêpey, flakey, and inflamed skin. They’re also a lot more stable than vitamins A and C, meaning they are of great value in skin-care products.
This is why Amaranté skin-care and Synergie Skin skin-care have been chosen for use at Ayurvé Spa / Ignite Medispa.